Amiaura™, a new way to treat pigments and powders

Mont-Saint-Guibert, June, 2024AMIAURA™ is a new solution developed by Ajinomoto thanks to the power of amino-acid technologies. It brings a new way to treat your pigments and powders achieving both functionality and respect for the environment.

Challenges in Make-up formulations

Silicon-free & natural trends.

Today, formulators are facing a dilemma when selecting silicon-treated pigments and powders. Known for their good functionalities, they aren’t trendy anymore following the usage of more and more natural ingredients in makeup. Moreover, silicon-treated powders sometimes oblige the usage of silicon-based dispersing agents due to their limited compatibility with non-silicon oils.

 

Skinification trend
Humectants used to compensate the drying effect of powders or to give a skin-nourishing benefit to the formulation are often degrading the makeup wear.

The Ajinomoto solution

To tackle the above challenges, we launched the AMIAURA™ kit to treat the powders with the following benefits:

 

 

  • Silicone-free solution
  • High functionality in pressed formulation or emulsions
  • Excellent moisturizing effect on the skin

 

How it works?

Two solutions are simply mixed sequentially with your powders to create an “amino gel” coating the particles.

Benefits:

Good skin adhesion

Protocol:
A glass vial containing powder and a piece of cover glass was shaken. The cover glass was removed and weighed, and the powder adhesion was evaluated from the change of the weight.

Good dispersibility

Test formulation: W/O liquid foundation containing 9.6% inorganic pigment. TK01A: 1.4% and TK 01B: 0.3% are incorporated In the final formulation. Microscopic observation: Pigment dispersibility of the test sample was observed with a microscope X40 after 1 month of preparation.

Good hydrophilic/liphophilic balance

Protocol:
The appearance was observed 60 minutes after water, powder and oil were put in contact.
Hydrophobicity: Water was placed in a glass vial, then the powder on its surface.
Water-oil partition: Water was placed in glass vial, then the powder dispersed on its surface, and finally the oil poured.